| At the Forum in Rome.
A complex of ancient temples, arches and public buildings, the Forum is at the heart of the city. |
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In Capri. |
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The Duomo in Florence. |
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| Here are the two stories from the Chapel Hill Herald
(with permission)
Max gets art lesson from masters By JEAN BOLDUC FLORENCE - Totally immersed in centuries-old art, Max Lewis and his parents are drinking in the tastes, sites and sounds of their second month in Italy. The Chapel Hill family is winding down their yearlong world tour that has brought them from North Carolina through several countries across Europe, the Middle East, Southeast Asia, down under to Australia and New Zealand and back again. They plan to return to the United States some time in July. After taking in the countryside of southern Italy last month, the Lewises turned their sites to Florence and Tuscany, which Julie Lewis said were breathtaking in their elegance and impossible to absorb in their rich offerings of beauty and cultural history. Her sister and brother-in-law, Laura and Marc, joined the Lewises for 11 days, following a visit from Julie Lewis' father and stepmother. She said all the familial attention was great for 9-year-old Max. "Max loved being sandwiched between Marc and Laura in the back seat of the car," his mother said. "He cuddled up with Laura who rubbed his back and stroked his hair, and beat up on Marc at every opportunity. Marc played rough with Max, and he loved it." By their own admission, Mark and Julie Lewis are wearing down as Max's top two playmates. They were grateful for the respite. Heading out to Montelcino, the group took in the scenery on a chilly rainy day, looking for a wine shop that they had visited once before. "We ran the streets in the chilling rain before spotting a restaurant that looked more like an illuminated cave dwelling," Julie Lewis said. "Many of the restaurants in Italy have a low dome-shaped brick ceiling that feels like you are eating in the wine cellar. It is a cozy atmosphere and we enjoyed a great meal of 'Riboletta,' a hearty Tuscan soup with chunky vegetables and soaked bread, pasta and wine." Stubbornly continuing their search, they were at last rewarded. "We had almost given up when we stumbled across it, a small stone building that looks like every other building around! The owner recognized us immediately and began pouring his favorite 'Brunello' wines, the best and most notable wines of Italy, certain to impress my Napa Valley relatives," Julie Lewis said. Vladi, the owner of the shop, is fluent in five languages and charming in all five, she said, adding that he's quick to pour visitors a glass or two of wine, then engage in the guessing game of where the visitors have come from. "Marc was impressed with the owner and the Brunello and started snatching up wines to take back to Tignano," Julie Lewis said. "One expensive wine he wanted to sample ($80 U.S.) was not open. The owner simply grabbed it off the shelf, opened it and poured. It is rare to meet a business owner that is so generous. It was like his only goal was to make us happy." Moving on to Florence, the Lewises toured the city that the powerful Medici ruled, along with some 200 neighboring towns, for more than 200 years. During that rule, the family commissioned many of the world's greatest artists to work in marble and on canvass, leaving the city its unequalled legacy. Visiting the Uffizi museum, Julie Lewis was struck by the enormity of the art collection. "The two to three hour line of tourists that snakes around the museum is a small indication of the treasures it contains," she said. "Mark made an appointment for us and we still had to wait, but it was spectacular." Famous for its collection of the works of DaVinci, Michelangelo, Rafael and others, the Uffizi building looks like something of a fortress, sternly guarding Italy's cherished history. Max was a little overwhelmed by the idea of trying to see all of the museum and suggested that perhaps a golf cart to see the whole place would be a good idea. His father suggested a hospital bed, saving the neck strain of trying to see all those painted ceilings. The instructional highlight came at the Galleria dell'Accademia when Max encountered Michelangelo's famous statue of David, which stands 17 feet tall. "The David completely consumes the dome shaped room it occupies and your attention," Max's mom said. "The giant statue commands respect from every angle and captures the quiet confidence of a young man sent to do the impossible, kill the giant Goliath. "As I stood there admiring the statue, a lady we had met while standing in line walked by laughing. She had just overheard Max saying to Mark as they looked at the David, 'I don't get it. What is so special about it anyway?' "Mark, seizing any opportunity to educate, immediately impressed Max as he described the story in detail and spoke of Michelangelo. He captured Max's spirit in his enthusiasm and took him from statue to statue pointing out each detail. He's a great father and teacher, and as a result Max is now a statue enthusiast! One night as we were leaving Florence at 10:30 p.m., Max said, 'I am not ready to go because I am still looking at this statue,' so we waited another 10 minutes until he had his fill." Julie Lewis said she was particularly affected by a visit to an area of the Galleria where several of Michelangelo's incomplete works are on display. Four statues found in the studio after the artist's death were especially compelling, she said. "They were huge blocks of rough marble; partial images of slave's strong bodies appeared to be climbing out of the marble," she said. "It was most amazing to see the process he used to create a statue, the small chisel marks and rough features that would eventually give way to an emotional display of art."
Max settles in for 2-month tour of Italy By JEAN BOLDUC : ROME -- Flying for 24 hours straight from New Zealand to Italy, the Lewises of Chapel Hill are winding down their world tour with a two-month stay in the Eternal City -- their longest stint so far in their yearlong trip around the globe. Nine-year-old Max and his parents, Julie and Mark, plan to return to the United States in July after completing their dream trip. The Lewises flew into Rome in a marathon travel day that Max actually found very enjoyable. "Each person has their own TV with a variety of current movies, music, comedy, TV shows and news reports," Julie Lewis said. "They even had Nintendo for Max ... it couldn’t have been more perfect! By the time we arrived he had giant eyes with red spirals twirling inside and a frozen smile on his face. He loves flying!" Arriving early in the morning, the Lewises were determined to adjust to the local time as quickly as possible. Now worldly-wise in the ways of travel, they were able to get some sleep on the plane, so they checked into their hotel and started sightseeing immediately. "Rome is a very exciting city, cram-packed with history, fashion, art, religion and urban chic," Julie Lewis said. "Marble statues dominate the city. They jump out at you from every angle ... on top of buildings, pedestals, street corners, parks and churches. Each statue is an incredible work of art." Two blocks from their hotel sits the Foro Romano, or the Roman Forum. It was the ancient commercial, political and religious center of the city. The area was expanded across the reigns of several emperors, then was turned into a cow pasture after the decline of the Roman empire. Today, excavation and analysis of the ruins continues while the city bustles along normally. As the Lewises took in the view while nibbling pizza for lunch, they marveled at the sight of it all. "It seemed unreal that we were in Rome, sitting at an outdoor café basking in the warm sun, sipping wine as the tourists flocked the Coliseum ... just the day before we were on top of the Sky Tower in Auckland on the other side of the world," Max’s mom said. Taking a walking tour of the city to fight off their drowsiness, the young family stopped by the Fontana De Trevi, the Trevi Fountain. Legend has it that if you throw a coin over your shoulder and into the fountain, you are certain to return to Rome. A wish will cost you a second coin. Like any big city, Rome is busy with lots of activity and many people. People watching, Julie Lewis said, is the No. 1 sport in Italy. "There were people everywhere walking, slurping gelato and minding their children as they ran around the square torturing the pigeons," she said. "The surrounding streets were home to the expensive designer clothing stores and wealthy customers sporting their high fashion and dripping in gold jewelry. Simply grab your beverage of choice, a seat at the fountain and observe the human zoo as the sun sets and the stars spill into the sky." By evening, Max was running out of gas, but as kids often do when they’re overtired, he seemed to spin like a top. While waiting for a late supper, he finally gave in, falling asleep and resting his head on the table in a restaurant. Each time a waiter or customer passed by, they’d tussle Max’s blond hair, never allowing him to fall completely asleep. "The owner came to mess up his hair, and I explained Max’s rude behavior and told our tale of travel exhaustion," Julie Lewis said. "The owner promptly started yelling at his staff, hands waving in the air, and within minutes our pizza had arrived." His mom fed him his dinner a bite at a time, and Max was quickly asleep again. The restaurant owner summoned a cab and waited outside for its arrival. The family arrived back at their hotel totally exhausted, but on local time. After Mark Lewis’ mother joined the family, they drove down the scenic southern coastline. The high cliffs set against the ocean make for a dramatic view. "Small, stacked rustic villages, colorful fruit stands and interesting characters greet you at every turn," Julie Lewis said. "The road, if you can call it that, hangs over the cliff like a weathered terrace, winding around the mountains and through narrow tunnels until you want to scream for mercy." After deciding to stay in Postino, a tiny coastal village, the Lewises drove through the narrow streets looking for a place to stay. The tourist season had not yet begun, so many hotels were not yet open. The Lewises’ presence brought some curious looks. "We walked, shopped and ate watching the Italian folks watch us," Max’s mom said. "All conversation stops as you approach, and they look at you with parental curiosity, waiting for you to do something worth scolding." Julie Lewis found the people of Italy to be very warm, but not immediately so. "You have to ease them into it," she said. But by now, the Lewises are quite capable at the fine art of making fast friends. "Mark found a lovely hotel overlooking the water at such a price that the owner begged us not to tell anyone," Julie Lewis said. "We awoke the next morning to steaming cappuccino and warm bread."
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